Moderate climbing shoes reddit. It makes it easy to do precise footwork on smaller holds. I was hoping some people could give me some insight at the major differences. Looking for a moderate shoe for bouldering, and lead climbing A subreddit dedicated to discussing and reviewing climbing shoes. My main bouldering shoes are dragos which I love, mainly for the sensitivity and confidence they give me. ), Sail, Ontario resoles Boulderz and true north are the only place i know of around Toronto that carry Tenaya shoe demos that happen from time to time at climbing gyms are your best bet at determining size/fit and performance Online: Epictv. I am currently looking to upgrade my climbing shoes and having issues finding a good fit. I have narrow heels and have always had issues with my shoes chafing my heels. So go to a shop, try on as may shoes as you can and buy the one that fits your feet best. I have this exact problem. Depending on your climbing history, you can get a lot of mileage out of your flat shoes even still. But remember that the most aggressive shoes are specialist tools that make you sacrifice in some areas to optimize performance in others. 👀 Share Add a Comment Sort by: Best Open comment sort options [deleted] • Mar 25, 2025 · Best Best Bouldering Shoes -> Top picks for beginners -> Aggressive shoes for advanced -> How to choose the best climbing shoes -> Pro Advice Mar 23, 2023 · The flat sole is also beneficial for certain styles of climbing, like crack climbing and slab climbing, where you don’t need excessive arch support or pinpoint toe performance. I don’t live in a climbing town so I keep ordering shoes in different sizes and returning them which makes it a process. I had a pair of neutral black diamonds that served me well learning and I was looking for a pair of moderate shoes. Hi all, Looking for some sport climbing shoe recommendations. I have neutral and moderate shoes and still usually wear neutral ones for the majority of indoor bouldering. I moved from relatively flat red chili shoes to La Sportiva solutions (I needed the large toe box as my toes are twisted with arthritis). Any recommendations are always welcome! I know alot of it is also technique before shoes even matter, so anything is I've gotten so used to the sensitivity of a soft shoe that climbing in anything remotely stiff feels grades more difficult even on terrain where most seem to prefer at least a moderate level of stiffness. So ive been climbing somewhat actively 4 months since i started with evolv defy shoes in size 44 EU (my street size is between 42-43 EU, but since my toes are always crammed in the front i had to go with these shoes) This has gone relatively well up until i started ascending 6a and beyond, i had problems with these because of my shoes and not because of my experience. I don't have experience with the Theory but given that it's a mostly rubber/synth shoe (not leather) it won't stretch THAT much but still probably more than you'd think. Jan 11, 2022 · Sometimes they’re climbing “moderate” 2,000-3,000-foot big walls that are a technical mix of face climbing, smearing, and crack climbing from fingers to off-width. Suprisingly confy for an aggressive shoe. Welcome to climbing :) In all seriousness my most aggressive shoes are borderline unbearable for more than 15 minutes when they're brand new but they stretch to be perfect within a few sessions. Both are moderate shoes but the price is significantly different. I got La Sportiva Otaki as my moderate/intermediate shoe. Sorted me right out. 1. If you want improved smearing a softer shoe will help with that, something like the scarpa veloce is moderately downturned and very soft. I tried on like 5 different shoes in the same size, and they ALL had differently shaped toe boxes despite being the same size. See full list on climbernews. I've been climbing for almost 2 years, indoor bouldering and outdoor sport. Would it be a bad idea to buy intermediate shoes as a beginner at bouldering or should i buy beginner shoes first and wait until i get to a good level. Have been climbing for Questions I’m hunting for my third pair of climbing shoes, and I’d like to know what shoe is your all-around go-to climbing shoe! What pair of climbing shoes doesn’t hurt you too much to wear around the base of the crag, yet is technical enough to have you sticking every smear like gum and finessing every infinitesimally small toe hold? Normally, it means the neutral stiff shoe, which forgives bad fit because of its structure. I honestly have no idea why people can downsize 2-3 sizes because I tried on the same size as my street shoes and my toes already screamed for help 😂 I prefer the fitting of the Solution Comp. Normal climbing shoes without a rubber are not made for toehooking and will be short lived if you do that, depending on your level of experience and style of bouldering. It really depends on your feet, on the climbing grade you climb/want to climb and on the types of climbs you want to do. After a few years off from climbing, I’m back at it, but now that I’m solidly climbing most V3s (I primarily boulder indoors) I’m looking for a more moderate shoe. (Kubo is about $159 and rovers are $80) and both are considered moderate climbing. At v4 it's probably time to consider a proper performance shoe if you haven't already (e. Rubber is very sticky and I like the more “moderate-aggressive” shape of the shoe. Most seem to me relatively flat, particularly the 5. I will say that I've had some success finding new to barely used climbing shoes on sites like ebay and poshmart. I've been climbing for around 3 months now, and I bought some generic climbing shoes but turns out they were oversized for me and the return policy didn't apply. Oh that note, climbing shoe models have different sized toe boxes and are made for different feet/toe sizes. Fairly new climber, indoor only so far. LS Mythos were my first shoe, and I still wear them when I want to give my feet a break from the downturned shoes. Peek our favorite 2024 climbing shoes from flat profiles to sharp downturns. I have flat and rather narrow low-volume feet. Get whichever feels snug but comfortable. I know the Geshido is more moderate compared to the Zenist according to the internet but in pictures they look like I find a moderate foot does me well for climbing, and I did ballet growing up as well. Anybody here have any recommendations for climbing shoes with a shallow heel? I've tried a couple different five ten's but always end up with a large air bubble in the heel even though my toes are jammed. 14 votes, 31 comments. Nov 11, 2023 · Ready to leave the beginner shoes behind? A reliable pair of intermediate climbing shoes might be exactly what you need to take your climbing game to the next level. Feb 19, 2021 · The best intermediate climbing shoes have a noticeable, yet moderate, camber. Am male with EU 40. But even the cheapest climbing shoes are miles better than rentals. Some aggressive shoes are stiff (Boostics), while others are soft (Furia Air), so what you're climbing on should guide how you specialize. That was my experience with my first pair of shoes (Evolv Kronos), and they were too big now. climbingshoes) submitted 4 months ago by ProperEnd3849 Hi guys, Im fairly new at bouldering (6 months of taking it more seriously) and need to "upgrade" my shoe. Jun 12, 2025 · We put 23 pairs of climbing shoes to the test on boulder problems, sport climbs, and traditional routes. This style of shoe probably excels the most at vertical face climbing, but some climbers use moderately downturned shoes for cracks and multi-pitch climbs (usually sized a little large) and other I can't really scrape the internet to find deals for you. (Only slightly more aggresive, no La Sportiva solutions or anything like that please). Something I do and could work for you is wear your beginner shoes to warm up in and then switch over to your moderate or aggressive shoes when you’re climbing at your limit. Some shoes widely used for bouldering aren’t explicitly designed or billed as bouldering shoes. Upper: Leather Outsole: Rubber sole Climb X Rave climbing shoes are a popular choice among climbers. e. Hi everyone! I got into climbing a few years ago and my first pair of shoes (which I love and still have) were La Sportiva Tarantulaces. When choosing climbing shoes, there are three primary considerations: Climbing shoe type: Choose between neutral, moderate and aggressive shoes depending on what kind of climbing you intend to do. But for sport they’re just too intense. Oct 28, 2022 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Reply reply My shoes over my time climbing: La Sportiva Tarantula - didn't get the fit exactly right for my first shoe, used for about 6 months, and sold them to a friend as they were still in good shape. Apr 16, 2025 · We tested 27 climbing shoes for men from La Sportiva, Scarpa, Black Diamond, evolv, Five Ten, and more to find the best shoes for you, no matter how you Climbing shoes are categorized by their shape from neutral to moderate to aggressive. V3-4 climber? Technique ok, muscles nonexistent. If you are really set on getting them for him as a gift I would make a little gift certificate that says something like “redeem for the pair of climbing shoes of your choice” and let him try on and pick out the ones he wants. May 16, 2024 · Climbing shoes need to make sense for the type of rock and style you’re climbing. As a beginner, I would recommend “neutral” to “moderate” climbing shoes. With climbing shoes there's no way I'll be able to buy online or just from recommendation. 100% Satisfaction Guarantee Hi everyone, My girlfriend is looking to get a new pair of climbing shoes and would love some help/recommendations. But considering you are climbing for a few months and climbing v4s, it's not like you are complete newbie. I've been climbing for 4 weeks and am climbing 5. I like the futuras/ (is there a woman's version of this shoe?), has anyone tried/have them and can give a review? Thank you! Mantras "replaced" maverinks, which replaced speedsters. Aggressive/downturned/cambered shoes have a curve to them that naturally puts your foot in a pulling position. Ideal for climbers pushing their limits. I was wondering if you guys have any experience or recommendations for a moderate type of shoe! Please let me know! In comparison to the first shoes I ever bought (some sort of Evo brand shoe), these newer shoes helped my climbing because they fit my feet really well. ). These were our favorites. And fit is the most important thing about climbing shoes. Heck, I don't know that well, but my partner helps me through it. LS solution felt too stiff to me. 10 range. While trying the sizes, a US10. She mostly boulders indoors but would like to start trying some outdoor Jul 7, 2025 · See our guide to the best rock climbing shoes of 2025, with reviews of the year’s top climbing shoes from La Sportiva, Scarpa, Evolv, Butora, and more. I currently just boulder but I’m transitioning into sport. I have been climbing in Butora Gomis and mostly enjoy them, but have noticed that they aren't super sticky for toe and heel hooks. Any advice/recommendations? Nov 11, 2023 · Moderate climbing shoes offer the best of both worlds; downturned enough for precise footwork on steep terrain, and flat enough for friction moves on slabby sport lines. Just because a shoe is expensive doesn’t mean it’s going to be the best for you, but then again what works best for you might be $200. 8s. My current shoe is the La sportiva tarantula which initially hurts a lot but i quite like now and am able to wear it for a while. Shoe recommendation! (self. Mar 1, 2023 · Learn the difference between moderate vs aggressive vs neutral climbing shoes to know which fits your climbing needs. For context: I'm normally in instinct vs wmn’s outdoors and dragos inside + outdoors. More info provided below :) Hey guys, I am currently looking to update my La Sportiva Mythos (been climbing through three pairs in the past few years). . On steeper walls, this helps set up your toes to not just push downward on holds, but Been climbing for about a year, v4ish? Using a pair of gifted shoes that are similar in function to tarantulas, i. Pay attention to your approach shoes in particular. Mar 17, 2025 · Downturn: Moderate Weight (Pair): 1 lb. invest some time getting to know more about all the types of shoes shapes and rubbers before. How to Choose Rock Climbing Shoes Rock climbing shoes are the interface between you and the rock, and the wrong type of shoe or fit can hold you back. This is why it all boils down to comfort and style. Here are a few climbing shoes that won't break the bank but still keep you smiling. Look at Kevin and Tommy on the Dawn Wall. It seems my heel just doesn't stick out much the way climbing shoes expect. Moderately downturned shoes are all-purpose, all-around shoes that can be worn for a variety of styles of climbing. Hi all I'm fairly new to climbing but I was looking at investing in a more aggressive pair of climbing shoes. Skwamas are also versatile shoes that I like a lot for bouldering. Building the first version of this list was simple: we simply asked ourselves which shoes we wanted included, then pulled from the reviews we’ve written over the years. climbingshoes) submitted 7 months ago by ComfortableSecure930 Hello just newly got into climbing, looking to buy a pair of shoes to buy online but don't really know which website I should be looking at. Looking for advice on approach shoes that double as hiking shoes Hi r/Climbing! I'm looking at purchasing my first pair of outdoor shoes as I currently do not own any hiking boots and use old worn down runners which are now quite uncomfortable. Every climbing shoe has a purpose, from flat to aggressive and asymmetrical. I was looking at evolv's lineup and I found these two shoes, the Zenist and the Geshido. com TLDR: I am looking for intermediate but comfortable climbing shoes for indoor climbing with slight/medium downturn and low/medium pre-tensioning. I tried the TC pros for a bit and just went back to a more aggressive shoe. I was thinking about buying the ocun's bullit or havoc climbing shoes but I'm not sure if they are beginner friendly. Noting that some people that buy very expensive, very sensitive and soft climbing shoes to climb indoors potentially own more than 1 pair - and they aren't using these pricey shoes for every send. I want something that is a good solution to this LaSpo miuras for moderate to steep sport, skwamas for bouldering! LaSport is the best IMO, they fit my feet well (they are wide). a aggressive Mar 10, 2025 · The best climbing shoes just keep getting better. Shop for Men's Climbing Shoes at REI - Browse our extensive selection of trusted outdoor brands and high-quality recreation gear. Jan 22, 2025 · These are our favorite picks for rock climbing shoes, whether you're bouldering, sport climbing or trad climbing. Just wanting more aggressive shoes for the fun of it is a perfectly valid answer. I was previously recommended by friends to perhaps Typically, aggressive shoes are less durable because of the thinner rubber than moderate shoes. I boulder up to V9 outside Jan 7, 2025 · Understand Shoe Shapes and Profiles Climbing shoes come in three primary shapes to match different needs: Neutral: Flat profile for all-day comfort—perfect for beginners starting their journey. It’s the first purchase I would make in terms of climbing, besides a membership at a gym lol Reply reply LiveMarionberry3694 • I got shoes when I got a membership, but a large part in that was because my gym was running a special where you get a harness, shoes, chalk bag etc. On indoor boulders, you're probably going to wear out your first pair of shoes long before climbing anything where shoe design is a limiting factor. Same with the Scarpa Instinct in a 40. I must be really pain sensitive. Hello! TL;DR: need recommendations / advice for moderate climbing shoes for a long (41 - 41. I was advised to get the size smaller by the… I have absolutely destroyed my pair of Merrill Moab Speeds and am starting to think of the next pair of hiking shoes that I’d like to buy. I love it when I come across other peoples’ posts on shoes that I'm interested in so thought this might be a good opportunity to give something back. Nov 17, 2023 · The shoe that's best for you depends on your body type, climbing style, the type of rock you climb on, and how much you want to spend. la sportiva solutions, scarpa instincts, mad rock drones, butoras, etc. They have a slight curve to the last and are more comfortable than aggressive shoes. You can probably look at different kind of models, just maybe avoid strictly performance-oriented shoes for now. There is no 1 answer to your question. Keep in mind everyone has different opinion on shoes varied by price, what everyone in their community has, foot shape, climbing style, etc. Just for the fact it’s cheaper to buy one pair of shoes rather than 2 Climbing shoes have wildly differing shapes. Not enough tension in the rand, and lack of a real closure system. Our final shoe rankings are based on Currently thinking of going for the La Sportiva Kubo, or the Mad Rock Rover. Hi all, I mostly indoor boulder grades V4 to V5+ (and occasionally V6). If you can, find a store near you (climbing gyms will often sell shoes, if you're in America there's probably an rei near you) and try on different brands, since each will fit differently (different toeboxes, different heels, etc). I've tried on everything at REI and found that my heels were getting rubbed raw from standing on my toes to test flexibility. I was about to bite the bullet and buy the Scarpa Vapors at REI as they felt good, but I saw a pair of Quantics barely used in the result 36 votes, 41 comments. A shoe thats really good on slabs might be absolutely hopeless in a cave for example. Apr 16, 2025 · So we thought we’d compile a list of our favorite sport climbing shoes—the shoes that our editors and testers choose to climb in when we’re not testing new shoes. I just purchased my first pair of shoes after a month of climbing very regularly. I noticed that they might not be the ideal fit for Personally, once broken in, they fit like a glove, similar to its predecessor. 1 month in now and they still hurt while climbing. Here's what you need to know. I prefer top-rope over bouldering and currently am not planning to ever climb outdoors. The last (i. The only thing to consider is that shoes do loosen up a little, so perhaps a half size tighter than your comfortable shoe size will make them snug enough that when they stretch a little they will be perfect. Speedsters were a really radical idea of what a climbing shoe could be, and mantras are the most watered down version of that. For intermediate to advanced climbs, a moderate camber provides adequate benefits without being too uncomfortable to wear numerous times in a session. Find your perfect climbing shoes at REI. Our testers conduct comparative field tests and, based on the real-world results, carefully rate products to tell you which are the best climbing shoes on the market. The shop staff promoted them so much, but the back of the shoes was super high and stiff, and it kept rubbing on my achilles heels. Mantras could be a good gym shoe, but the heel could be a problem. It is a great option for those looking for a high-performance shoe that won’t break the bank. Top quality, great selection and expert advice you can trust. I think I have a Greek shape foot (pic included below). I am about to replace my beginner climbing shoes as it was a hand-me-down (albeit it was a decent fit at that point of time) and its starting to feel loose. Personally I'd go neutral. This has been problematic since I have been getting more into climbing overhangs which have critical toe/heel hooks baked into their beta. In general, I understand that neutral shoes are usually better for non advanced climbers but I know that the Scarpa Vapor V is a "moderate" (slightly aggressive) shoe (although it definitely isn't the most aggressive climbing shoe out there). In addition, we considered shoe models that are popular with boulderers at local outdoor areas and gyms. Don't focus on a specific brand or model, instead look for a few characteristics: At least 4mm of rubber Flat to moderate (at most) downturn Beyond that you're just looking at preferences, like hard vs soft rubber, lacing system, etc. I’ve only been bouldering about a month and have been using rental shoes, but have been wanting to buy a starter pair (rentals… Buying shoes as a gift is a sweet idea but not very practical as you really need to be able to try on before you buy. I've been climbing in five ten niad's for the past year or so and really like the the way they fit my toes but I'm Hi all, I recently purchased the Mad Rock Drone HV CS. Read on for our 2025 picks from La Sportiva, Scarpa, and more! Hey everyone, I’ve been climbing for about a year now and I love it! Planning to start outdoor this year, I do bouldering and top rope. beginner shoes. And for what it’s worth, the Testarossas are more aggressive than the Muiras, but I can perform equally as For me, with climbing shoes, there's no substitute to going to a store and trying on different models and different sizes. I have very narrow feet and my climbing shoes are la sportive mythos. I prefer aggressive shoes even on face or slab climbing, but it's way more of a comfort preference. I was wearing Millet Easy-Ups prior. Shop for Climbing Shoes at REI - Browse our extensive selection of trusted outdoor brands and high-quality recreation gear. The cons are that the heel on the LV version don’t fit me really well on just my right heel, break in period can be painful, and the shoes can stink up to high heaven after a while. What is the Best All-Round Moderate Climbing Shoe? Finding the best moderate shoes depends on what exactly you’re going for, so I’ve decided to give you the best all-round option. Truth. Approach shoes would probably be better on slabby stuff, but if it's getting to the point where I can't get up something in my trail runners, I should probably be roping up and putting the climbing shoes on. Carrotfueled's guide to climbing shoes (lightly edited by tinyOnion & soupyhands): Shoe Terms Downturned the general shape of the shoe, and more specifically the angle of the toe and foot posture. It’s very much person preference. I also prefer soft shoes to stiff ones, and prefer somewhat downturned shoes. Out-of-the-box comfort is one area of While I love my shoes, I find they often slip a lot on footholds, hence my search for a slightly more downturned shoe, but not aggressive as I'm not climbing at a high enough level yet. Flat shoes are not better then x shoe or visa versa, you really do sound like a beginner tho, climb some 6c or beyond problems on your comfy floppy beginner shoes and you will see why that's prob a bad Idea. 5 street), narrow feet with smaller volume AND: La Sportiva TC Pro for gym sport climbing? Happy TG! I would love the advice of you lovely ladies. the specific shape of the sole) on most entry level shoes will be such that you can find a fit that works for you no matter the brand/model, they Hey all, just picked up a pair of mad rock drone cs and thought I’d share my initial impressions after my first session. I’ve stuck with scarpa in the past but i’m open to considering other Nov 30, 2022 · Our Method for Choosing the Top Bouldering Shoes We started our shoe evaluation with climbing shoes marketed by manufacturers as best suited for bouldering. I spend most of my time sport climbing indoor, maybe around a 70/30 split of the time, where I engage in bouldering more often than top/lead climbing. As the title says. Not aggresive, but I have seen climbers use them up until 7a (font scale) so I stopped worrying about the shoe being flat. Now, to find the right shoe. It’s also easier for me to smear and do moves like heel and toe hooks. My outer large toenail can break off in chunks when I wear climbing shoes, so Egyptian shape shoe could be ok too? I am thinking maybe try a lace-up shoe to get A subreddit dedicated to discussing and reviewing climbing shoes. She's been climbing for a couple months now and wants something slightly more aggressive then her basic gym shoes. 3 oz. Quickly tried the LS Skwamas in a 39 and they seemed too small. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Moderate shoes feature a slightly downturned toe, and are a great all-around option for most types of climbing. The website shows that the boulder ones have a rubber on the top of the toebox, which makes the shoe more resistant to toehooks. We split our reviews of the best climbing shoes into Aggressive and Moderate categories; aggressive shoes cater to steeper and more difficult routes or boulders and have more downturn, asymmetry, and performance oriented fits Ive scored multiple pairs of almost $200 shoes for like $80 bucks because sizing climbing shoes is so hard. Use an insert or go for something like a Merrell (they Nov 6, 2023 · If you're looking for a new pair of cheap climbing shoes, you've landed in the right place. It's important to remember that down-turned shoes aren't necessary for overhang climbing, though they do help a lot. g. Merrill has great durability from my experience thru-hiking, but I’m wanting to pick some brains and see what other hikers like and why. Should you decide to go with a more aggressive shoe, remember that you don't have to wear it non-stop. The shoes you listed are all really different, some pretty soft and others quite stiff. Ive been thinking if . Here's my complete guide to moderate climbing shoes. The more downturned/aggressive the shoe shape, the better suited for challenging climbs (but they can also be more uncomfortable if you’re not used to it). However, just like feet vary My opinion is that, at the end of the day all climbing shoes have gotten expensive so any shoe you buy is going to be a little hit to the wallet. Instincts are a good allrounder. I also tried Scarpa Instinct VS, but they hurt too much to climb in, so I returned those. 100% Satisfaction Guarantee Hi!! Looking to upgrade my climbing shoes within the next couple of months. Still a lot of good rubber left but wondering if I should be switching to more aggressive shoes and if so, what models? Friends recommend the skwama or zenist but having tried them on they are far too uncomfortable. 5 felt comfortable with moderate curl, so I opted to downsize to US10 thinking they would stretch a little. A few of the good brands include five-ten Are aggressive downturned shoes mandatory for hard bouldering? In all the old master of stone videos, everyone is climbing hard in those purple mythos. These shoes are designed to provide climbers with the precision and sensitivity they need to handle difficult routes while remaining comfortable enough Best website to buy climbing shoes online? (self. This is just my opinion. Moderate: Slightly downturned for versatility, balancing comfort and technical performance. If you’re ok with possibly having to return the shoes because of the fit, I would look into that. My arches hate climbing top with my tarantulaces, but my tenaya lace ups are great, and super sticky since I smear and pray a lot more than I probably should. Couldn't find that same level of confidence in a more moderate shoe. LS solution comp felt too soft and downturned. Any recommendations? Edit: the hardest boulder I've send is a v4 Imo - "better" shoes only help your climbing if you are using them for their specific features/utility correctly, which tbh I'd argue most people don't know. Some shoes are more pointed than others, so perhaps try some flatter based ones, which are suitable for indoor climbing. Once you know what fits its easy to find them online! In person: MEC, local climbing gyms (boulderz/climbsmartshop, true north climbing, hub Markham/Sauga, etc. Instincts are considered moderate but if you thought that was too aggressive maybe look into the V6 from Evolv? It’s pretty much Evolvs version of the Arpia V but IMO it looks better and Evolv right now is having a 25% off sale. My main problem is toe pain with a really loose heel. And some shoes are great for people with wide feet, but if you got narrow feet you won't really fit them. gwaqi ditgzhcy nqlbxx bntrl bspadb omhby rnxsb cjuuem phwvhj ibvkb